Aag Aur Pani

Aag aur Pani is a series of sketches-in-words by a  Banaras based author, theatre director and poet Vyomesh Shukl.

The heritage walk with the author, through the lanes and  history of the city is astonishing. So much is already written about the city, but the interesting little details added about the places and people, could be done only by a local. 

I enter into the book through a door at Panchganga Ghat, sketched by James Princip in 1820's The stairs are seen, on which Kabir touched Guru Ramanand's feet and attained enlightenment. 

 The Nath of the city is Lord Vishwanath, where Ramayan was composed  by Goswami Tulsidas on its Ghats. The famous Ramleela was played even before he wrote Ramcharitmanas. Before it was for educated class, afterwards masses also enjoyed it.

The life and times of the  giants of Hindi literature like Bhartandu Harishchand, Jaishankar Prasad. Ramchandra Shukl, 'Hariaudh', Premchand is engaging, informative and a delight to read.

The journey of tabla maestros like Gudai Maharaj, Kishan Maharaj, Lachhu Maharaj   and renowned musicians like Pt Ravi Shankar, Chunnulal Mishra captivates throughout.

The book leaves many pictures in the mind e.g. ever-loving Bismillah Khan's lying in the charpaye 

smoking, or playing shehnai while  leading the Muharram procession.

The language may be difficult at certain chapters, but it never slows down the flow. 

 I recommend this book to all my friends for an informative and delightful reading.

Subah-e-Banaras, Assi Ghat

Imagine a person who is a typical drunkard, obnoxious, difficult to live with and sometimes even his parents announce in the newspapers that they disown him. After a few years you meet him, he is most cultured, charming and elegant. This is what happened to me when I entered Assi Ghat, Banaras. I had left the same ghat four years ago, as soon as I entered it.

Visiting the spotlessly clean ghat in the evening was a bliss. I felt so ashamed that I had abandoned it, thinking there was no hope. A hesitant street food eater I pounced when my host offered me the lemon tea being sold there. Healthy and tasty. A new recipe, go explore! ! Wait, there is an Italian restaurant called Pizzario and a book shop also.

I sat on the mat spread on the floor and watched the majestic Ganga Aarti. Vedic shlokas were being played .

Morning, half an hour before the sunrise, the ghat was pleasantly crowded. Now The Ganga Aarti was accompanied by the vedic shlokas recited by the students of ‘Panini Mahila Mahavidhyala’. A yagnya was being performed simultaneously by a family and everyone was asked to participate if they wanted. I did, and loved it. After the Aarti we were asked to offer jal to the Sun god, if interested. The copper pots were provided to offer Jal at the river Ganga. Shlokas were being recited at this point also by the trained classical singers.

Classical Music Programme: Many celebrities have also performed here before. Today a young lady sang Kabir’s bhajan based on morning raga .While she mesmerised the crowd, appeared the sun on the horizon and its rays hit the Ganges spreading red hue all around.

Yog: A yog teacher instructed the gathering while doing yoga and before I knew it was already 8.30 am 

All my friends who see only dirt at the Prime Minister’s constituency, please visit Assi Ghat, Subah-E Banaras , if you happen to be there. And before saying, ‘What a dirty city’, remember the city is carrying the burden of millions of pilgrims smilingly.
Banaras pics: http://tinyurl.com/p32pc24

The Manikarnika Ghat, Kashi

 Photo:  TripAdvisor

"

Ok", my host Alok told me when after the darshan at Vishwanath and Kal Bhairav Temples, I asked him if we could visit the Manikarnika Ghat. It was his first time too, so had to ask for directions. Early in the morning, mentioning a cremation ghat to a localite who is enjoying his tea at a tea shop, sounded inappropriate. Sipping his tea, he guided us without any fuss.  

Manikarnika is the holiest cremation ghat at Banaras in India. Well stacked logs and rising smoke reminded me of all the dear ones who have left me forever. 

The self appointed guide/boatman reminded me of a Paulo Coelho's quote from  Eleven Minutes, "The world revolves around something that only takes eleven minutes."  After telling the story of  Parvati's lost Kangan (bangle) in a kund right there, he continued that it takes around two and a half  hours for a body to go up in smoke. Sometimes a little longer. After that other rituals are performed. The total cost includes Rs 3k. Though I had doubt about the numbers he had stated, still I wondered that is the end of a person's life so simple to pass? Rs Three thousand and two and a half hours? Actually it is simpler for the person who has departed. It is difficult only for those who are left behind. 

Between the smoke and fine dust in the air, I could imagine the great king Harishchandra, the epitome of honesty, as an employee at the ghat, haggling with his wife for the charges he had to collect for the pyre of their son. I had goosebumps when I read it in school in a book called "Hamaare Poorvaj", I still felt a few. Is that why these ancient cities charm us?