Hemkund , Hospitable and Homely

Two roads diverge at Ghagaria, I am happy that  I could travel both. The one goes to Valley of Flowers and the other to Hemkund Saheb, the holy pilgrimage of Sikhs. Gurudwara Hemkund Saheb (4633 mt) is in Chamoli district of Uttrakhand. The holy shrine is associated with the tenth Guru of Sikhs, Guru Gobind Singh Ji. He came here for meditation and later wrote his experiences in his autobiography.

Baaronmasa, an agency, headed by three young IITiens, arranged the  eco tour for seven of us, who  came from different states of India.The journey began from Dehradun to Joshimath. After the night stay we drove to Govindghat. The 13 km walk from Govindghat took us to a place called Ghagaria. The next day was booked for Valley of flowers. The day after, which was 15th August'17 we were on our way to Hemkund Saheb.

The trail was ascending from the beginning to the end.Steep, but it was broad enough. The trek comes under moderate to difficult  category, as I was told. It welcomed us with a scenic waterfall, not very far away.

In the beginning the place looked crowded, but slowly we got scattered as every one has a different pace. People walking all alone is a common sight.It was nice to be greeted 'Happy Independence Day' by fellow trekkers and people riding on horses and ponies, as it was 15th August.

 I walked slow, and took few stoppages. I preferred to stand and rest rather than sitting.

Scenery was awesome, so just standing and gazing at the mountains, clouds, flowers and glaciers was a quick relaxation.

Even after walking for 3 to 4 hours there was no trace of the destination. The short cuts which looked very tempting were not easy to climb.This is what I had thought but  not my 'Buddy'  Sasi, who in spite of a little AMS overtook me by taking shortcuts. Bravo!

Flowers on the way were as amazing as we saw in the Valley. Flowers here looked compact, firm and brighter than the Valley flowers.My guide told me it was because these plants get a good supply of manure as so many mules and horses commute throughout the season, whereas animals are not allowed in the Valley. I found more variety here than in the Valley itself. I could spot a Brahmkamal also.

'Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing' .so I kept climbing. The only annoying thing throughout was that there was no milestones. If we ask locals around, they would say,"only little is left'' in a patronizing tone.

Had lunch in one of these Dhabas.

 There was a stretch when I felt like a snail.Just moving very slow.

                                  This glacier had mud and and grass along with, beautiful sight indeed!

                        

                   What force and speed!

1100 in all







Finally, the Gurudwara!

I chose steps to a long road to reach the top. 

Even after the flight of innumerable stairs, 

there was still some climbing left.People 

were on their way back advised me to walk 

faster to get the prasad. 

I met my group mates who had reached there hours before.and were ready to go back. The Gurudwara people were winding up their work. Some of them washing vessels and keeping them in order.I was not surprised to see their devotion, we all know about that.

They close the Langer at 2. But I could reach only by 2.45 pm. so no Prasad for me. Prasad, which means a lot to us, Indians. I asked them if I could take a pinch of prasad from the big empty pot./boiler kept there. They stopped me and told me to wait. Just in a while they brought a big , clean bowl of steaming Rajma-chawal for me.They must have prepared it for their own lunch. I was so touched by their gesture. 

The main hall of Gurudwara was locked. Just a little request, and they opened the door for a few of us who could reach late. The place was heart warming. We were allowed to click pictures. But the place was too pious to post its pics on FB.

Going back was comparatively easier, but not easy. My companions were faster so they had all gone. Two boys ran past me, exactly the way my brother and I did while climbing down from our village in Rudraprayag during vacations. I felt like a lady Bhishm Pitamah , the great-grand old man of Mahabharat. The guide was with me so I was not tensed. Climbing down was the same endless trail. It was normal till it was not dark. After  that moonlight helped. The guide told me that there is no problem except sometimes Bhalu (bears) come out from the jungle and may attack. The bhalu part was a bit scary for me.

To the relief of my friends, I reached the base by 8.30. I was told that they had already chosen a pic of mine to be put on the posters to search me. All in a lighter vein , of course.With bhalus around, they were really worried for me.

 With this I put a tick mark  on one of the destinations in my bucket list.

Next: Badrinath and Mana, the last village on the India -Tibet border.

Valley of Flowers, a Walkothon to Remember

pic: Vivek Negi

Day 1, 12th Aug
It's not about the destination. It's about the journey to get there. This was the line that was flashing in my mind while I walked long trails and climbed steep mountains during a week long trip to Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Saheb.
The journey started from Dehradun to Joshimath, a nine hour long bus ride with a group of fun-loving people organised by Baaronmasa. Throughout the ride the bus movedalong the river. We meet four out of five Prayags, confluences. The fifth confluence is ten km north of Joshimath at Vishnuprayag.

The confluence at Devprayag is amazing. Even though you are sleeping through the journey, you must wake up and have a look.

Joshimath is a lovely little town. Street food and a few tourist attractions can be explored to keep one busy for the evening. Hotel Auli-D offered us a comfortable stay. Next morning we drove to Govindghat which was 20 km away and took us less than an hour. The names of the places which were just the words in the itinerary were taking shapes. As a habit I don't google before any trip to retain the surprise element, as I am always with reliable people who would never leave me in a jungle where bears roam around.

Govindghat to Ghagaria is 13 km walk. A long walk indeed, but later I knew that this was easiest of all the treks in the trip.We walked along the Laxman (Ganga) River. There were many small and huge waterfalls on the other side of the rivers. There were food and snacks stalls at some distance throughout. They sold boiled Channa with onion, chilli and lemon, Pahari cucumber, which was juicier than the one we get in plains and neembu-pani. I can't imagine eating all this back at home from roadside stalls, but there was something in the fresh, clean and dustless surrounding that I couldn't resist.

Took the signboard too seriously and followed it till the end and it surely didn’t disappoint me.

We were asked to be with at least one member of the group.So in case of emergency one is not alone. The person is called Buddy.

After walking 13 km for around 7 hours we reached Ghagaria. Colourful tents at the campsites can be seen from the distance, giving the relief that we are almost there. As we reached the hotel Holiday and had tea and pakoras we got a feeling that our stay is going to be comfortable and friendly.

Day 3 Valley of Flowers

Ghagaria is the starting point for Valley as well as Hemkund Saheb.

Valley is around 3 km away from the starting point. The trail is not as smooth as we had treaded a day before, from Govindghat to Ghagaria. It’s rough and boring at times. It’s a long long way.

As you think it’s boring, something interesting comes up.

Shades of Green

Suddenly appears a glimpse of the valley.

And then the Valley!

Pic: Ashish Kundalia

I chose to go to Joan Margret Leggy’s grave. She had discovered the Valley of Flowers in 1885.She died here in the valley while visiting it for the fifth time. The other way lead to a riverbed.

I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence commeth my help. -Joan Margret Legge.

It is advisable that where ever you are in the valley you should should start walking back as soon as the clock strikes 2, then only one can reach Ghagaria in time. We were lucky to have clear sky. Rains would have made the walk difficult.

Who would not envy him. What a place of work!

A picture speaks a thousand word, then how many would a video speak? An amazing video by Ashwin, a fellow trekker.

http://tinyurl.com/y99fs9va

Day 4: Hemkund Saheb

To be contd...

Kartik Swami Temple

Kartik Sawami is lord Kartikeye, brother of Lord Ganesha. He has my sympathy and support since I heard his story as a child. The story goes like this. To solve a disagreement between their two sons Ganesha and Kartikeye, Lord Shiva and Parvati asked them that whoever will circle the world three times and come back first, will be the winner. Kartikeye, who was also the Senapati (chief) of the army of Gods, started his journey immediately on the peacock, his vahan (vehicle). On the other hand Lord Ganesha walked around his parents thrice, saying that my parents are my world and won the race.
It took us three hours to reach Kanakchauri from Kedar Camp, Guptkashi. The little dhaba on the roadside offered tea and snacks and promised to serve us lunch when we come back. These dhabas make such lovely memories.We remember what we ate years back on a particular day and with whom.

The trail to the top was 3 km and we took 90 minutes to cover it. If I don’t have to rush and left to my own pace I can climb any mountain. My group leader Agustya gave me this liberty, the very first day. He gave me a good advice, never to compete with others.Walk at your own pace. No wonder I used to be the last one among my fellow trekkers , though I always had someone or other for the company. Whenever I’m climbing, I wait for a herd of sheep. They make the trek complete.

After a point the trail was almost flat and we could see the temple, a white dot, on the top of a mountain. How wonderful is it that we can see our goal clearly, with a well laid path ahead and amiable people beside.

Temple at the Top
Of all the seven treks of this trip, I would remember this one for the pretty little flowers along the pathway. They looked like they were looking at you and seeking your attention like a group of small children. And did I hear ‘Cheeese’ ?

As a rule I don’t google the place before the visit to retain the element of surprise. Specially when I am with the people I can rely on. I am happy I didn’t. The moment I climbed up the last step and saw the panoramic view I was spellbound. The statue of a lovely peacock at the temple made sure that the temple belonged to lord Kartikeye and then I knew that Kartik Swami is called Murugan Swami in south India.

Temples are at the peaks of the mountains and providing electricity here would be expensive. In most of the temples solar energy is being used. Like windmills, solar panels also look charming to me. A solar pillar stood behind the temple too.

‘Return journeys are shorter’, and this one was not an exception. A sumptuous meal awaited us at Kanakchauri. We were served regular daal-rice-chapati and hari bhujji i.e greens, which I, a pahari, tasted after a long time. We do cook it at home but the taste is never the same. At home we eat out of habit, not because we are hungry. At least this is the case with me. This is one of the pleasures mountains offer me. I miss all this when I say, ‘Mountains are calling and I must go.’

Joshimath

One has to reach Joshimath in Uttarakhand to follow the trails to Badrinath, Valley of Flowers, Auli and some other beautiful treks. It took me more than 9 hrs to reach here from Dehradun.
Joshimath, originally called Jyotirmath drives its name from the fact that here under the Kalpvriksh, Adi Shankaracharya did tapasya and had the darshan of the Jyoti.

Kalptaru,uner this tree Adi Guru did tapasya for 2 yrs

On my way to Pangarchulla trek, I reached Joshimath late in the evening.The hotel didn't serve the  food so I went out to  explore the city and look for my dinner. Ah! The bliss of a new city where nothing is familiar and monotonous. This city seemed lucky for me, as I got the clothes fit for the trekking. The shopkeeper suggested me 'Chauhan Tea Stall, run by a lady, for dinner. Food tasted home cooked and lacked the dhaba taste, good enough for me.

After a fantastic trek to Kunwari pass I came back to Joshimath on my way back.I was not exactly tired, but had bearable body pain due to the trekking on snow, grass and stones for four days. After a hot shower I walked towards the Marwari Hotel for a cuppa of hot tea.With a little limp I climbed up the ascending road to Kalptaru, the famous Tree under which  Rev Adi Shankaracharya did the tapasya.

In the evening I strolled through the streets of Joshimath leisurely. I was more aware of the surroundings with a free mind, as the trekking part was over successfully. The moment I came out of the hotel, I noticed cleanliness all around. Each and every nook and corner of the city was spotlessly clean. From Shankaracharya Math at the top to Narsingh Temple at the lower side of the town, it was a pleasure to walk. To reach the Narsingh temple I walked narrow lanes with the houses in a row beside it, with friendly residents who guided me reach the temple. I wished the lanes of my lovely Benaras were also equally clean.

It was getting dark so I couldn't go further and gazed at the temple from the distance.I found the clean lanes more worshippable than any temple in the world. I thought of the holy hands behind cleaning the place and keeping it in that way.

At Marwari Chawk, I congratulated one of the sanitary workers for keeping the city so clean. About his routine he told me that he, like twenty seven others are given particular areas. He works from 6 to 11 in the morning and then 2 o'clock onwards in the evening.

He thanked me for the compliments and said that it was nice that I had noticed it. My dear sanitary angel, you are no less than a soldier, or an engineer or a politician who is doing his bit in taking India forward.Keep shining!

I think there should be rewards for the cleanest states, city and area.The sanitary workers should be given uniforms and right to object and punish the people who litter the street.

 I'm thankful to the cool shop-owner of the Marwari Sweet Shop, who allowed me to sit and wait in his restaurant to make and wait for phone calls as there was no signal available in my hotel room. Tea was good and sweets were tempting.

Joshimath please call me again for my dream trip To Valley of Flowers in coming August.

Post Valentine's day Thoughts

I belong to the generation when there was only one channel, Doordarshan. Unlike now, we believed what we watched on TV. News in the newspapers used to be fresh, and not already read and devoured on TV channels and Internet. So some of the incidences shown on TV got infused in my mind so deeply that even after decades I think of them often.

I never fell in love the way they do in films, nobody does. But seeing it in the lives of celebrities intrigues me. A person committing suicide after getting rejected in love never had my sympathy. Just like Elizabeth Bennet I believed in pride and self esteem. Admired successful people, especially if they were from economically weak background. At this point I read about Syed Modi’s murder. Syed Modi married to a fellow shuttler. The inter-religion marriage must have been against the wises of their parents. What a lovely picture of love and romance that was! But he was shot dead at the gate of KD Singh Babu Stadium Lucknow. I still wonder why the lady didn’t just go for divorce and parted ways. Why he had to be killed?

The other story involved Kamal Hasan, whom every North Indian adored after the block buster EDKL, left his wife to marry his pregnant lover. I read very sophisticated Vani’s detailed interview and felt her pain deeply the way young girls do. Dimple Kapadia, who got the most expensive ring (in India at least) from her beau came back to films to raise her daughters.

After three decades Kamal Hasan, who does not believe in the institution of marriage, divorced twice and got into a relationship and parted too. I was happy to see vivacious Vani at a book launch in Bangalore. Ameeta has become the queen of Amethi and contesting for election against Sanjay Singh’s first wife Garima Singh.

So, where is love? In small pieces here and there in moments and memories, may be.